Montenegro. National Park Prokletije

  After crossing the Albania–Montenegro border, we entered Prokletije National Park, often described as Montenegro’s most spectacular wilderness. This vast protected area is part of the same jagged mountain chain as the Albanian Alps, but it feels like stepping into a new world...

  Map of the hike...

  By the time we entered Montenegro it was already late afternoon, nearly evening, so we focused only on finding a place to camp...

  We discovered a sheltered clearing beside a fresh mountain well, right under a huge stone wall, with the rugged slopes of Prokletije rising around us. The setting felt remote and peaceful, the kind of hidden corner that makes a night in the mountains unforgettable.

  We watched a beautiful sunset from our campsite, the sky glowing in shades of orange and violet as the surrounding peaks slowly faded into shadow...

  The next morning, we began our descent toward the village of Vusanje...

  On the way down, we stopped at a small mountain sheep farm, where the shepherd welcomed us warmly...

 We bought fresh, tangy cheese made right there in the high pastures, the perfect treat for both breakfast and lunch as we continued our journey...

  The village of Vusanje itself was enchanting, a quiet cluster of stone and wooden houses set among green meadows and framed by dramatic cliffs.

  Small mosques with delicate wooden minarets rose above the rooftops - a striking and unusual sight in the middle of the mountains...

  After enjoying breakfast in the village with the fresh cheese we had just bought from the shepherd - and refilling our bottles with cold spring water - we began our climb toward the high mountain ridge leading to Karanfili Peak, our next destination.

 

  When we reached the top of the ridge beneath Maja e Podgojs peak, Diana decided to rest and take in the beautiful panorama. She set up our inner mosquito tent to stay protected from the persistent mountain flies, enjoying the sweeping views in peaceful comfort. I continued alone toward Karanfili Peak.

  Beyond Maja e Podgojs, the trail grew noticeably more challenging - at times requiring careful scrambling and even short jumps from one jagged rock to another. The effort was rewarded with incredible scenery: sheer limestone spires rising all around and endless layers of mountains fading into the distance.

   Karanfili is one of the most impressive summits in the Prokletije range, a series of sharp limestone spires that pierce the sky like a crown. Its name, meaning “carnations,” reflects the jagged petals of rock that shape the massif... 

  Once I returned from Karanfili Peak, we shared a leisurely lunch, taking in the stunning surroundings one last time, and then started our descent from the ridge toward the next stage of our journey...

  While descending, we discovered a patch of wild blackberries, their deep purple fruits a delightful natural dessert to round off our midday meal...

  After our descent, we entered the Grebaje Valley, a lush, green expanse framed by towering peaks.

 Just before starting the climb to our next planned campsite, a light rain began to fall. We took the opportunity to stop for a cappuccino at the charming Škala Grebaje restaurant, conveniently located right along our route upward. The cozy atmosphere and warm drinks offered a welcome pause as the rain tapped gently on the roof, giving us a moment to rest and enjoy the beauty of the valley...

After our coffee break, we hiked up to the ridge and found a perfect spot to camp for the night near a gently flowing mountain stream - an ideal place to cook and enjoy dinner while taking in the surrounding nature...

  The next morning we began with a climb to Valušnica, a grassy summit known for its sweeping panoramas of the Prokletije range. We lingered there for nearly an hour, watching clouds drift slowly between the jagged peaks while the sky above remained a brilliant blue. From high above, we could see the mist rising from the valley like soft waves rolling upward...

  We enjoyed our breakfast right on the summit, savoring the peaceful morning and the ever-changing play of light and cloud over the mountains...

   After finishing breakfast, we left the summit of Valušnica and followed the stunning ridge line toward Trojan Mountain...

  View to Valušnica from the side...

  Early September painted the landscape in rich autumn tones—golden grasses, deep green pines, and the last splashes of alpine flowers adding delicate bursts of color. The sky was a flawless blue, and the trail rolled gently along the crest, offering uninterrupted views on all sides. To one side, the Grebaje Valley stretched far below, while on the other, the jagged limestone spires of the Prokletije range reached toward Albania. Every step felt like walking a high natural balcony, surrounded by crisp mountain air and the soft scents of late-summer blooms...

  Passing along the high ridge above the valley where we had camped the night before...

  We came across wide fields of wild blueberries, their late-summer berries perfectly ripe and sweet...

  The path to Trojan Mountain was one of the most beautiful sections of our trek. Early September had brushed the slopes with autumn colors - grasses turning to gold...

  The trail wound gently along the ridge, opening onto sweeping views of the Prokletije range and the valleys far below.

  Before making the final ascent to the summit, we paused for a leisurely lunch, sitting and savoring the quiet while clouds drifted lazily across the flawless blue sky. From there, the last stretch to the peak felt almost effortless, a golden ribbon of trail leading us upward through the crisp mountain air.

  At last we stepped onto the summit of Trojan Peak (2,191 m), a broad, rocky crown that offers some of the finest panoramas in all of Prokletije. From this airy vantage point, the world seemed to stretch endlessly in every direction. To the east we could trace the jagged spine of the Albanian Alps, while to the west the rolling green pastures of Montenegro’s Plav and Gusinje valleys opened wide beneath a flawles September sky...

  After taking in the views and a few final photos, we began our long descent toward the village of Gusinje. The trail dropped steadily from the rocky summit into gentler meadows scented with late-summer herbs, guiding us down toward the valley floor and the promise of a warm meal after days in the high mountains...

  One of the most impressive moments of the trek was passing through this natural stone arch, where the trail winds directly beneath the towering rock bridge before opening to sweeping mountain views...

  View to the arch from the other side...

  We climbed down to Gusinje, just near the old stone church with its rustic walls and timeless charm.

  We had a last evening bus to Podgorica in just 15 minutes, and it seemed impossible to make it on time. But a little miracle happened—a local driver, passing by, saw us (even though we hadn’t waved for a stop) and offered us a ride to the center, so we made it on time! 

 The next day, we planned to leave in the morning from Podgorica to Budva, and then from Budva to Sveti Stefan, where we plan to stay for the next four days.