Andalusia. Granada

  Granada was perhaps one of the city we were most looking forward to visiting during our journey through Andalusia. Nestled at the foot of the Sierra Nevada mountains, it was the final stronghold of Muslim rule in the Iberian Peninsula and the capital of the Nasrid Kingdom, which survived for more than 250 years until 1492. Its greatest treasure, the Alhambra, is one of the finest examples of Islamic architecture in Europe and a remarkable reminder of the sophistication of Al-Andalus. Here, Moorish palaces, Christian monuments and narrow medieval streets tell the story of a city shaped by the meeting of two very different civilisations...

  We arrived from Málaga around midday and immediately began exploring Granada, entering the historic centre through Calle Oficios, a narrow street that leads towards some of the city's most important monuments...

  Walking along Calle Oficios felt like stepping into another period of history. The narrow street is surrounded by historic buildings and leads directly towards the Cathedral and the Royal Chapel, the latter being the final resting place of the Catholic Monarchs, Isabella I of Castile and Ferdinand II of Aragon, who conquered Granada in 1492. The street itself is also home to the old iron gates that mark its entrances, adding to its historic character...

  At the end of the street, we reached Granada Cathedral, an impressive building that dominates the surrounding historic quarter. Construction began in 1523, on the site of the city's former main mosque, following the Christian conquest. Originally planned in Gothic style, it was transformed into one of Spain's most important Renaissance churches under the architect Diego de Siloé. Its monumental façade, enormous scale and richly decorated interior reflect the ambitions of the new Christian rulers who wanted to leave their own architectural mark on the former Muslim capital.

  Nearby, in Plaza de la Romanilla, we came across an unusual monument depicting a man with a donkey. It is the Monument to the Water Carrier (Monumento al Aguador), a tribute to an old profession that was once essential to everyday life in Granada. Before running water became available in homes, water carriers transported water from fountains and springs, often using donkeys loaded with large containers. The bronze sculpture, created by Aurelio Teno and unveiled in 1999, preserves the memory of this disappearing occupation...

  Of course, we couldn't resist another local speciality. Seeing freshly prepared churros served with thick hot chocolate, we stopped to try this traditional Spanish treat. The combination of crispy fried dough and rich chocolate was an excellent introduction to Granada's food culture...

  After exploring the Cathedral area, we wandered through the Alcaicería, Granada's historic Moorish bazaar. Once the city's main silk market during the Nasrid period, this maze of narrow streets was where merchants traded silk, spices and luxury goods... 

  After checking into our accommodation and settling in, we headed out again to explore the city. Since we had already booked our tickets for the Nasrid Palaces at 8:30 the following morning, we decided to spend the first afternoon discovering Granada itself...

  We are wandering through Granada's old streets, exploring its lively squares and historic corners and city views from the different view points... 

   

  Around 4 PM, we stopped at a traditional local tavern for tapas — small Spanish dishes or snacks, usually shared over drinks. Granada has a particularly interesting tapas culture, where ordering a drink often comes with a complimentary small plate of food, making it a great way to sample different local flavours...

  Afterwards, we made our way to a couple of viewpoints on the opposite hillside to admire the Alhambra in the afternoon light. Its reddish fortress walls and towers stood prominently above the city, while the snow-capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada formed a spectacular backdrop. The warm afternoon light brought out the rich red tones of the palace walls, creating a particularly beautiful panorama. It was a perfect way to end our first day in Granada, with a closer exploration of the Alhambra awaiting us the following morning...

   The following morning, we headed to the Alhambra, one of the most celebrated historical monuments in Spain. Our tickets were booked for 8:30, specifically for the Nasrid Palaces, as entry to this part of the complex is restricted to the time slot printed on the ticket.

  The Alhambra is much more than a palace. It is an entire fortified royal city, developed mainly during the Nasrid dynasty between the 13th and 15th centuries. Within its walls were royal residences, administrative buildings, military quarters, gardens, workshops and sophisticated water systems. It served as the political and cultural centre of the Nasrid Kingdom of Granada, the last Muslim state on the Iberian Peninsula...

  We headed straight to the Nasrid Palaces, the architectural heart of the complex. We spent around an hour and a half exploring their rooms and courtyards, taking our time to appreciate the extraordinary craftsmanship...

   One of the first highlights was the Court of the Myrtles (Patio de los Arrayanes), with its long rectangular reflecting pool, perfectly framed by myrtle hedges and elegant arcades. The still water mirrored the surrounding architecture, creating a remarkable sense of symmetry and tranquillity. At one end rises the imposing Comares Tower, which houses the Hall of the Ambassadors, the grand reception chamber of the Nasrid rulers...

  Another unforgettable space was the Court of the Lions (Patio de los Leones), one of the finest achievements of Nasrid architecture. Its central fountain, supported by twelve marble lions, is surrounded by an elegant gallery of slender columns and delicate arches. Four narrow water channels extend from the fountain towards the surrounding halls, symbolically representing the four rivers of Paradise in Islamic tradition.

   Inside, the level of detail was astonishing. Walls were covered with intricate plasterwork, geometric patterns, Arabic calligraphy and delicate vegetal ornamentation. Much of the decoration was carved directly into the plaster, creating layers of repeating patterns that seem almost impossibly precise. The ceilings were equally impressive, especially the wooden dome of the Hall of the Ambassadors, constructed from thousands of interlocking pieces and decorated with intricate geometric designs symbolising the heavens...

  Looking closely at the plasterwork, carved arches, inscriptions and decorative ceilings, we began to understand just how much skill and patience went into creating these interiors. Almost every surface had been carefully designed, yet the overall effect was remarkably harmonious rather than overwhelming. We could easily have spent even longer examining all the details....

  After the Nasrid Palaces, we continued towards the Generalife, the former summer residence and country estate of the Nasrid rulers. Its name is commonly associated with the Arabic expression Jannat al-Arifa, often translated as the Garden of the Architect...

  Unlike the enclosed and richly decorated palace interiors, the Generalife offers a more open environment of gardens, terraces, fountains and long pathways surrounded by cypress trees, flowers and carefully maintained greenery...

  One of the most impressive features of the Generalife gardens is the way water is used everywhere — flowing through narrow channels, filling pools, bubbling from fountains and running alongside the pathways. This was no coincidence, but the result of an ingenious water system developed by the Nasrid rulers. Water was diverted from the River Darro and brought to the Alhambra through the Acequia Real, an artificial canal that followed the contours of the hillside. From there, a network of smaller channels and pipes distributed it to the palaces, courtyards, gardens and agricultural terraces. What makes this particularly remarkable is that the system relied largely on gravity rather than mechanical pumps. The water was carefully directed across different levels of the complex, making fountains and flowing water possible even high above the city...

  Beyond its practical purpose, water also played an important role in Islamic garden design, symbolising life, purity and paradise. Walking through the Generalife, it is easy to appreciate how cleverly engineering and landscape design were combined here.

  We enjoyed walking along the garden promenades, where the views opened towards Granada, the surrounding hills and the distant Sierra Nevada. The combination of carefully designed gardens, historic architecture and mountain scenery made this part of the visit particularly memorable...

  Our next stop was the Alcazaba, the oldest major military section of the Alhambra complex. Unlike the elegant royal palaces, this part was built primarily for defence, with thick walls, watchtowers, fortified passages and open military grounds...

  From the upper platform of Torre de las Armas tower, we enjoyed magnificent panoramic views over Granada, the Albaicín quarter, the surrounding countryside and the mountains beyond. Looking back towards the city, it was easy to appreciate the strategic position of the fortress and why this hill was chosen as the centre of Nasrid power...

  Before leaving the Alhambra, we also visited the Palace of Charles V, which offers a striking contrast to the surrounding Moorish architecture...

  One of the most unusual buildings we came across was the Palace of Charles V, which looks quite different from the rest of the Alhambra. Commissioned by Emperor Charles V in 1526, it was designed in the Renaissance style, with a massive square exterior and a surprisingly large circular courtyard inside, surrounded by two levels of columns. After spending time among the delicate arches, intricate decorations and Islamic patterns of the Nasrid palaces, this building felt almost like stepping into another world. It was a striking reminder of how much Granada changed after the Christian conquest.

  By lunchtime, we had finished our visit and descended back into the city. After having lunch and collecting our luggage from the accommodation, we headed to the bus station. At 2 PM, our bus departed for Córdoba, another historic jewel of Andalusia and once the capital of the Umayyad Emirate and Caliphate of Al-Andalus.

  Our journey continued to Córdoba, another city deeply connected to the history of Al-Andalus. While Granada was the last stronghold of Moorish rule in Spain, Córdoba had once been its political and cultural centre, and we were looking forward to exploring the city and seeing the traces of that remarkable past...