Spain.Madrid
Madrid served as our gateway to Peru, as our international flights to and from Lima departed from the Spanish capital. We spent five nights in the city, exploring Madrid both before and after our South American adventure. During our stay, we also made day trips to Toledo and Segovia, giving us a chance to experience more of the Castilian heartland. From grand plazas and historic streets to world-class museums, Madrid offered plenty to discover. One of the highlights of our visit was the Prado Museum, home to one of the finest collections of European art in the world and a must-see for anyone visiting the city.
Our first proper day in Madrid began early in the morning. We had arrived from Kaunas the previous evening and only had enough time to reach our hotel, check in, and pick up something light to eat from a supermarket before getting some rest. The next morning, we took the metro into the city center and set off on a relaxed walk to discover Madrid at its own pace.
We started at Colón Station, where the Monument to Christopher Columbus stands tall in honor of the famous explorer who opened the way for European voyages to the Americas.
From there, we continued to the iconic Metropolis Building, one of Madrid's most recognizable landmarks, crowned by its elegant dome and golden winged statue.
Completed in 1911, it stands at the intersection of Gran Vía and Calle de Alcalá. Its most distinctive feature is the black slate dome topped by a golden statue of Victory. Originally built as the headquarters of an insurance company, it remains one of the most photographed buildings in Madrid.
Following the lively streets of central Madrid, we reached Puerta del Sol, one of the city's most famous squares and a traditional meeting point for both locals and visitors. Here we stopped to see the famous statue of the Bear and the Strawberry Tree, the symbol of Madrid. The bear represents the wildlife that once inhabited the area, while the strawberry tree symbolizes the forests surrounding medieval Madrid. The image also appears on the city's coat of arms.
Our walk then brought us to Plaza Mayor, Madrid's grand historic square surrounded by elegant arcaded buildings. Once the center of markets, celebrations, and royal events, it remains one of the city's most atmospheric places.
Built during the reign of King Philip III in the early 17th century, Plaza Mayor has witnessed markets, bullfights, royal ceremonies, public celebrations, and even inquisitions. Today it is one of Madrid's most beautiful and atmospheric squares.
Continuing through the quieter Plaza de la Villa, one of Madrid's oldest squares, we admired its collection of historic buildings and the Monument to Álvaro de Bazán, the celebrated Spanish admiral known for his naval victories. Remarkably, he never lost a naval battle during his long military career. His victories helped establish Spain as a dominant maritime power during the 16th century.
Finally, we reached Plaza de la Armería, the magnificent square located between the Royal Palace and Almudena Cathedral.
Unlike many European cathedrals, Almudena Cathedral is relatively modern. Construction began in 1883 and was not completed until 1993, when it was consecrated by Pope John Paul II. Its architecture combines neoclassical, neo-Gothic, and modern styles.
The Royal Palace is the largest royal palace in Western Europe, containing more than 3,000 rooms. Although Spain's royal family no longer lives there, it is still used for state ceremonies and official events...
After visiting Plaza de la Armería, we simply wandered back through the city along different streets, passing once again through Plaza Mayor and several smaller squares. Rather than focusing on sightseeing, we enjoyed soaking in the atmosphere of Madrid on a calm morning, watching locals go about their daily routines and taking in the character of the city.
Along the way, we stopped for a light breakfast, trying traditional churros and empanadas with fresh juice. It was the perfect break before continuing our day...
Shortly after 10 a.m., we arrived at the Prado Museum just as it opened. Before going inside, we noticed something unexpected - several bright green parrots perched in the trees surrounding the museum. Seeing these exotic birds thriving in the heart of Madrid was quite surprising and added an unusual touch to our morning...
After watching them for a while, we bought our tickets and headed inside, eventually spending around four hours exploring the galleries and countless exhibition rooms.
Founded in 1819, the Prado Museum is considered one of the finest art museums in the world and is home to Spain's national collection of art. Its vast collection includes masterpieces by some of Europe's greatest painters, including Velázquez, Goya, El Greco, Rubens, Titian, and Bosch. Among its most famous works are Velázquez's Las Meninas, Goya's The Third of May 1808, and Bosch's extraordinary The Garden of Earthly Delights. Even for visitors who are not art enthusiasts, the scale of the collection and the beauty of the historic building make the Prado one of Madrid's must-see attractions.
For us, the Prado Museum was undoubtedly one of the highlights of our time in Madrid. With so many masterpieces under one roof, it was easy to spend hours wandering from room to room, discovering works that had previously only been familiar from books and photographs.
Las Meninas ("The Ladies-in-Waiting") – Diego Velázquez (1656). One of the most famous paintings in the world, Las Meninas is celebrated for its innovative composition and mysterious perspective. Velázquez places himself inside the painting and blurs the line between artist, subject, and viewer, creating a work that continues to fascinate art historians centuries later.
Las Hilanderas (The Spinners) – Diego Velázquez (c. 1657). At first glance, the painting appears to show women working in a weaving workshop, but it also contains a hidden mythological story in the background. The combination of everyday life and classical mythology showcases Velázquez's extraordinary skill and imagination.
The Third of May 1808 – Francisco Goya (1814). This iconic painting depicts the execution of Spanish civilians by Napoleon's troops during the Peninsular War. Its emotional intensity and realistic portrayal of human suffering made it one of the first great anti-war paintings in Western art.
The Family of Charles IV – Francisco Goya (1800). Goya's portrait of the Spanish royal family is remarkable for its honesty. Rather than idealizing the royals, he portrayed them with striking realism, giving the painting both historical importance and psychological depth.
The Nude Maja – Francisco Goya (c. 1797–1800). One of the most controversial paintings of its time, The Nude Maja was unusual because it portrayed a real woman rather than a mythological figure. Its boldness challenged artistic conventions and helped make it one of Spain's most famous artworks.
We were especially impressed by Goya’s Black Paintings series, which stood out from everything else for its intensity and raw emotional power. Unlike traditional works that focus on beauty, order, or idealized subjects, these paintings feel deeply personal and unsettling, almost as if we are witnessing the artist’s inner thoughts and fears directly on the walls. The dark themes, distorted figures, and haunting atmosphere create a sense of unease that is both disturbing and fascinating at the same time. Overall, this series left a strong impression on us because it feels surprisingly modern, as if Goya was already exploring psychological and emotional states that artists would not fully embrace until many decades later.
Goya’s Black Paintings series were extremely unusual for their time (1819–1823) because they broke almost every expectation of what “serious art” was supposed to be in early 19th-century Europe. At that moment, most academic painting in Spain (and across Europe) still followed ideals inherited from Classicism and the Enlightenment: clear storytelling, balanced composition, idealized figures, religious or historical dignity, and controlled emotion. Even Romantic artists—who were already more emotional - still usually presented drama in a structured, theatrical way. Goya did something very different...
The Witches' Sabbath – Francisco Goya (1821–1823). Part of Goya's haunting Black Paintings series, this work reflects the artist's dark view of humanity in his later years. The eerie gathering around a demonic figure creates an atmosphere of fear, superstition, and unease.
Two Old Men Eating Soup – Francisco Goya (1820–1823). Another of Goya's Black Paintings, this unsettling work explores themes of aging and mortality. Its rough brushwork and ghostly figures make it a powerful example of emotional expression in art.
Saturn Devouring His Son – Francisco Goya (1819–1823). Perhaps the most shocking painting in the Prado, it depicts the mythological Titan Saturn consuming one of his children. The raw violence and psychological intensity of the image have made it one of the most famous and disturbing paintings in art history.
After the Bath – Joaquín Sorolla (1909). Sorolla was a master of light, and this painting beautifully demonstrates his ability to capture sunlight, reflections, and movement. His works offer a striking contrast to the darker masterpieces found elsewhere in the Prado.
Portrait of a Cardinal – Raphael (c. 1510–1511). This portrait is admired for its elegance and realism, showcasing Raphael's mastery of Renaissance portraiture. The subtle expression and rich colors reveal why Raphael is considered one of the greatest painters of the Italian Renaissance.
David with the Head of Goliath – Caravaggio (c. 1610). Caravaggio revolutionized painting through dramatic contrasts of light and shadow. This powerful depiction of David and Goliath is a masterpiece of Baroque art, combining realism, emotion, and theatrical intensity.
The Triumph of Bacchus – Diego Velázquez (1628–1629). Velázquez presents the Roman god of wine among ordinary people, blending mythology with scenes from everyday life. The painting is celebrated for its realism and its innovative approach to traditional subjects.
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Bacchanal of the Andrians – Titian (1523–1526). One of the masterpieces of the Italian Renaissance, Bacchanal of the Andrians depicts the inhabitants of the island of Andros celebrating the arrival of wine sent by the god Bacchus. The painting is filled with music, dancing, drinking, and carefree enjoyment, creating a vibrant scene of earthly pleasure and abundance. Titian's rich colors, dynamic composition, and masterful treatment of the human figure make the work a remarkable celebration of life and sensuality. In contrast to the darker and more introspective paintings elsewhere in the Prado, this joyful mythological scene captures the Renaissance ideal of harmony between humanity, nature, and the classical world.
The Three Graces – Peter Paul Rubens (1635). One of Rubens' most famous works, this painting celebrates beauty, movement, and vitality. The graceful figures and rich colors perfectly illustrate the exuberant style of the Baroque period.
The Descent from the Cross – Rogier van der Weyden (c. 1435). A masterpiece of Northern Renaissance art, this work is admired for its emotional intensity and extraordinary detail. The grief and sorrow expressed by the figures make it one of the most moving religious paintings ever created.
The Garden of Earthly Delights – Hieronymus Bosch (c. 1490–1510). Perhaps the Prado's most famous painting, The Garden of Earthly Delights is an extraordinary triptych that presents a fantastical vision of paradise, human temptation, and hell. When closed, the outer panels show the world during Creation, painted in subdued gray tones. Once opened, the viewer encounters three dramatically different scenes: the Garden of Eden on the left, a vast landscape filled with naked figures, oversized fruits, strange animals, and surreal activities in the center, and a terrifying vision of Hell on the right.
What makes the painting so fascinating is that its meaning remains a mystery more than 500 years after it was created. Some scholars believe the central panel is a warning about the dangers of earthly pleasures and sin, while others argue that it depicts a lost paradise where humanity lives in harmony with nature before the Fall. Bosch left no written explanation, allowing countless interpretations to emerge over the centuries.
Bosch's imagination was unlike anything seen in European art at the time. Created decades before the Renaissance reached its peak in northern Europe, the painting feels surprisingly modern, with dreamlike imagery that has often led people to compare Bosch to twentieth-century Surrealists such as Salvador Dalí. Although separated by more than four centuries, both artists explored bizarre worlds that seem to emerge from dreams and the subconscious.
The painting's enormous scale and incredible level of detail reward close examination. Every section contains dozens of miniature stories and symbolic scenes, meaning that no two visitors notice exactly the same things. This combination of technical brilliance, mystery, imagination, and visual spectacle has made The Garden of Earthly Delights not only one of the Prado Museum's greatest treasures but also one of the most studied and debated artworks in the history of Western art.
The Triumph of Death – Pieter Bruegel the Elder (1562). This dramatic work portrays death conquering humanity regardless of wealth or status. Its countless details and powerful message about the fragility of life make it one of the most important paintings of the sixteenth century.
After four hours in the Prado Museum, our heads were completely full of art, history, symbolism, and fascinating stories. We felt that we needed a break to process everything we had seen...
So we left the museum, found a place for a light lunch with some fresh salads, and then headed to relax by the water in El Retiro Park. It is Madrid's most famous park and a perfect escape from the busy city streets. Once the private gardens of the Spanish royal family, it is now a vast green oasis in the heart of the city. Wide tree-lined avenues, elegant fountains, colorful flower beds, and quiet shaded corners make it one of the most pleasant places to spend an afternoon in Madrid.
The Monument to Alfonso XII stands majestically beside the park's large artificial lake, known as the Estanque Grande. The impressive semicircular colonnade and towering equestrian statue create one of the city's most iconic views. Around the lake, people stroll, sit on the steps enjoying the sunshine, rent rowboats, or simply relax while watching the reflections dance across the water. Musicians and street performers often add to the lively yet peaceful atmosphere.
Sitting by the lake after the intensity of the Prado felt like the perfect contrast. Instead of dramatic scenes of war, mythology, and human suffering, we were surrounded by calm water, birds, families enjoying the park, and locals taking a break from their day. It was a chance to slow down, absorb everything we had learned, and simply enjoy one of Madrid's most beautiful public spaces before continuing our exploration of the city in day lights...
We then stopped by Palacio de Cibeles, one of Madrid's most beautiful and recognizable buildings. Originally built as the city's grand post office in the early twentieth century, it now serves as Madrid's City Hall. Its striking white façade, ornate towers, and impressive architecture make it one of the city's most iconic landmarks. Standing next to the famous Plaza de Cibeles and the Cibeles Fountain, it is a perfect example of Madrid's elegance and grandeur...
As the day came to an end, we found ourselves back where we had started, near the beautiful Metropolis Building. After a full day of exploring museums, parks, and historic landmarks, it felt fitting to end our journey beneath the building's iconic dome..
From there, we took the Madrid Metro back to our apartment. Opened in 1919, the Madrid Metro is one of the oldest underground railway systems in Europe and has grown into one of the continent's largest networks. It was inaugurated by King Alfonso XIII on 17 October 1919, with a single line connecting eight stations. Today, it is an essential part of daily life in Madrid and is known for being clean, efficient, cheap and easy to navigate... One thing we noticed throughout the city was the number of souvenirs featuring metro stations and the famous red diamond-shaped Metro logo. The logo itself has become one of Madrid's most recognizable symbols, almost as iconic as the city's monuments. 
On our next visit to Madrid, after returning from Peru, we stayed at Camping Osuna, a choice driven mainly by practicality and budget. Accommodation prices in the city had risen dramatically compared to before our trip to Peru, and the same apartments we had previously considered were now costing more then twice as much.
Camping Osuna turned out to be a convenient alternative. Established in the 1960s, it is one of Madrid's oldest campsites and has been welcoming travelers for decades. Located close to the airport and connected to the city by public transport, it offers a surprisingly green and peaceful environment within the Spanish capital...
We reached the city center shortly after 15:00, and our first stop was a McDonald's on Gran Vía. While stopping at McDonald's may not sound particularly memorable, this one is quite special because it occupies a historic early twentieth-century building and blends surprisingly well into the elegant surroundings. Unlike the modern, standardized restaurants found elsewhere, its façade preserves the architectural character of the area, making it feel like part of Madrid's historic cityscape rather than a typical fast-food outlet. We also went inside and had lunch there, taking a short break after the journey and enjoying the lively atmosphere of Gran Vía just outside the windows.
As we walked along Gran Vía, we were once again struck by the distinctive architecture that gives Madrid so much of its character. One of the city's most recognizable features is its abundance of grand corner buildings. Many were constructed during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, when Madrid was expanding and modernizing. Architects took advantage of prominent intersections by designing spectacular curved façades, domes, towers, and ornate corner turrets that draw the eye upward and create dramatic vistas along the wide boulevards. This gives Madrid a unique elegance and makes almost every major intersection feel like an architectural landmark.
One of the finest examples is Palacio de la Equitativa, a beautiful Beaux-Arts building completed in 1891 for an American insurance company. Its elegant façade and corner tower mark the beginning of Gran Vía and showcase the influence of Parisian architecture on Madrid at the time.
Nearby stands the iconic Metropolis Building, completed in 1911. The richly decorated façade, filled with sculptures and ornamental details, perfectly captures the city's architectural grandeur during the Belle Époque period (from 1871 to 1914, just before World War I).
Further along Gran Vía rises the famous Capitol Building, also known as the Carrión Building. Completed in 1933, it represents a completely different architectural style: Art Deco combined with elements of modernism. Its streamlined curved corner and the enormous illuminated Schweppes sign have made it one of Madrid's most recognizable images. Often compared to landmarks in New York, the building reflects the optimism and modern spirit of the early twentieth century...
Together, these buildings illustrate why walking through central Madrid feels so special. The city combines Beaux-Arts elegance, French influences, Art Deco modernity, and Spanish architectural traditions into a harmonious urban landscape...
The succession of monumental corner buildings, domes, towers, and grand façades creates one of the most impressive city-center skylines in Europe and gives Madrid a character that is instantly recognizable.
The Monument to Cervantes located in Plaza de España, one of the most important literary memorials in Madrid. The sculpture is dedicated to the famous Spanish writer who created Don Quixote, and it stands as a tribute to his huge influence on Spanish language and world literature. At the top of the monument is a bronze statue of the author, while the base features detailed reliefs showing scenes and characters from his most famous novel, including Don Quixote and Sancho Panza.
Then we made our way back to the Prado Museum once again, passing by the beautiful Neptune Fountain on the way...
This time, our goal was not to explore the galleries, but to visit the museum shop and pick up a book with reproductions of the most famous masterpieces we had seen. After spending so much time inside the museum earlier, we had really grown to appreciate its collection and wanted something to take home as a memory. We especially liked the exhibitions and the overall experience inside the Prado, so returning felt almost natural. We went after 18:00, taking advantage of the museum’s free entry period, which is offered during the last two hours before closing each day. Although there was a queue, it moved quickly and we were inside within about 10–15 minutes. The atmosphere in the evening was calmer, and it felt like a perfect final moment to revisit one of Madrid’s most impressive cultural landmarks before continuing our day.
We’re simply walking through the streets of Madrid, where charming cafés line the sidewalks, their façades often decorated with azulejos—the city’s signature hand-painted ceramic tiles and one of Madrid’s defining features. These colorful patterns frame entrances, wrap around bars, and brighten ordinary buildings, turning even a casual stroll into something visually rich and full of character.
Our last evening walk in Madrid followed almost the same route as our first morning stroll - passing through the timeless heart of the city...
Just nearby, the iron-and-glass Mercado de San Miguel adds a different rhythm to the scene - its elegant 19th-century structure glowing softly at dusk, with intricate metal framing and wide glass panels that reveal a lively interior. Inside, the air is filled with the scent of tapas and fresh seafood, while outside, the building itself feels like a lantern: delicate, ornate, and buzzing with life just steps away from the quiet stone plazas.
The quieter charm of Plaza de la Villa
Views from Plaza de la Armería ...
The Sabatini Gardens beside the Royal Palace feel like a quiet geometric escape - neatly trimmed hedges, reflective symmetry, and elegant fountains that make the space feel calm and perfectly ordered, almost like a green frame for the palace itself...
Nearby, the Temple of Debod sits on a hill with one of the most memorable viewpoints in the city. The view toward the Royal Palace and cathedral is especially striking...
The Temple of Debod is an ancient Egyptian temple that was carefully dismantled stone by stone and gifted to Spain by Egypt in the 1960s. It was moved from its original location near Aswan after the construction of the Aswan High Dam threatened several historic sites. Spain helped save other Nubian monuments, and as a gesture of gratitude, Egypt donated the temple.
Each block was numbered, transported, and reconstructed in Madrid, where it was rebuilt in a park setting to preserve its original orientation. Today, it stands as a rare piece of ancient Egypt outside Egypt itself - now also known for its peaceful hilltop viewpoint, especially at sunset.
After descending from the hill near the Temple of Debod, we took the nearest metro and rode back toward the campsite, ending our journey through Madrid. Looking back, the visit felt even more meaningful the second time - the city’s rhythm, elegant architecture, and warm atmosphere were easier to notice and truly appreciate. From the grandeur of the Royal Palace area to the quiet beauty of plazas and the world-class art at the Museo del Prado, everything came together into a rich impression of culture and history. Madrid’s lively streets, tiled details, and relaxed café life gave it a unique charm that stayed with us long after each walk. This second visit made us value the city even more, leaving with a strong appreciation for its character, energy, and timeless beauty.
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