Peru. Cordillera Huayhuash Circuit. part 1

  After four days of acclimatization around Huaraz, the day had finally arrived to begin the adventure we had come to Peru for: the legendary Huayhuash Circuit. The Huayhuash Range is considered one of the most spectacular trekking destinations in the world. Located south of Huaraz, this compact but dramatic mountain range contains dozens of peaks above 5,000 and 6,000 meters, including the famous Yerupajá (6,635 m), the second-highest mountain in Peru...

 Unlike the more visited Cordillera Blanca, Huayhuash is wilder, more remote, and far less developed, offering trekkers breathtaking mountain scenery, high passes, turquoise lakes, and unforgettable campsites.  

  Map of the hike...

    Our day began at 5:00 a.m. with a transfer from Huaraz. We booked transportation with El Rápido, paying 100 soles per person for the ride to the trailhead. The journey took around five hours, winding through mountain roads, small villages, and high Andean landscapes. By approximately 10:00 a.m., we arrived at the start of the trek, eager to finally begin walking...

   Compared to the demanding days that awaited us, the first stage was relatively gentle and served as a perfect introduction to the Huayhuash region. We hiked around 8 kilometers, gradually gaining altitude while enjoying our first close views of the surrounding mountains. The highest point of the day reached approximately 4,650 meters above sea level, giving us another opportunity to confirm that our acclimatization had been successful.

   As we continued through the valley, the landscape became increasingly impressive. Snow-covered peaks towered above us while herds of grazing animals dotted the high-altitude grasslands. The feeling of finally being deep in the Andes, carrying everything we needed for the coming days, made the start of the trek particularly exciting...

   Throughout the entire route, we constantly crossed small community lands and villages, as the Huayhuash Circuit passes through territory managed by different local communities. Along the way, we regularly encountered checkpoints where we had to pay access fees, which are required to continue the trek and directly support the people living in these remote mountain areas... 

   In the afternoon, we reached Janca Camp, our first campsite on the circuit. The camp sits in a beautiful mountain setting with excellent views of Nevado Ninashanca (5,607 m), whose glacier-covered slopes dominate the surrounding landscape...

  Since the first day's hike was relatively short, we arrived at Janca Camp with plenty of time to relax and enjoy our surroundings. We had a very comfortable tunnel-style tent with a panoramic view, which allowed us to sit back and take in the scenery directly from tent...

   Throughout the afternoon, we watched the changing light on the snow-covered slopes of Ninashanca and enjoyed the peaceful atmosphere of the valley. It was the perfect introduction to life in the Huayhuash mountains and a chance to slow down before the more demanding days ahead.

  The night at Janca Camp was our first real test of sleeping at high altitude. Despite feeling well acclimatized during the day, the thin air made sleep more difficult, and we found ourselves waking up several times during the night. At around 4:00 a.m., we stepped outside the tent and were rewarded with an incredible sight: the Milky Way stretching brightly across the sky above the dark silhouettes of the mountains. Far from any towns or artificial light, the stars seemed unbelievably bright, creating one of the most memorable moments of the entire trek...

   The second day of the Huayhuash Circuit turned out to be the most demanding hike of the entire trek. We covered around 24 kilometers with approximately 1,100 meters of elevation gain, crossing the high Siula Pass at 4,800 meters above sea level. It was a long, physically intense day, but also one of the most spectacular in terms of scenery...

   In the morning, the trail followed gentle valleys surrounded by massive peaks, gradually gaining altitude as we moved deeper into the Huayhuash range.

  By the afternoon, we arrived at Carhuacocha Lake, one of the most iconic campsites on the circuit. The view from the lake was absolutely breathtaking: calm turquoise waters reflecting the towering snow-covered peaks of Yerupajá, Siula Grande, and Jirishanca, creating a perfect mirror of the surrounding Andes. It was one of those places where it felt impossible not to stop and simply admire the landscape.

  At first, we thought we might stay at Carhuacocha for the night. However, since we were making good time and had plenty of daylight left, we decided to continue further to reach the famous Three Lagoons viewpoint the same afternoon. The decision was also influenced by the weather forecast I had checked before the hike, which showed clouds forming the next morning. We didn’t want to risk missing the views of the lagoons and surrounding peaks in clearer conditions.

  Yerupajá (6,635 m) is the second-highest mountain in Peru and the highest peak of the Huayhuash range. Known for its extremely steep and technical faces, it is considered one of the most difficult mountains to climb in the Andes. Its massive glaciated walls dominate the surrounding valleys, especially around Carhuacocha, creating one of the most dramatic mountain landscapes in Peru.

   Leaving Carhuacocha, the trail became steeper as we began the climb toward the Siula Pass area. Along the way, we reached the first of the stunning high-altitude lakes - Laguna Gangrajanca, a striking turquoise lake nestled beneath dramatic glaciated peaks. Its deep blue color contrasted beautifully with the rocky slopes and snowfields above, marking the beginning of one of the most scenic sections of the entire circuit.

   From there, the route continued upward toward the famous viewpoints overlooking the three lagoons, with the mountains growing more dramatic with every step. It was already clear that this decision to push further would reward us with some of the most unforgettable views of the trek...

   After soaking in the views from the Three Lagoons viewpoint, we continued the climb toward the pass...

   From there, we descended to the campsite...

   Arriving around 6 p.m., just as it was already getting dark. After such a long and demanding day, we were completely exhausted. The next day, we planned to take it more relaxed, as this stage had been the hardest so far.

 After the exhausting previous day, we started the next morning from Huayhuash Camp (Carampampa/Camp Huayhuash area) with a much slower pace. The body clearly felt the altitude and effort from the day before, but the promise of hot springs at the end of the day kept us moving forward. 

  Relax with a cup of coca tea, which we always have in the thermos...

   The trail gradually climbed and opened up into wide high-Andean landscapes. One of the most striking sights along the way was the massive Trapecio Mountain (5,644 m). With its sharp, geometric pyramid-like shape, Trapecio stands out clearly from the surrounding peaks. Its steep, glacier-covered walls and dark rock faces make it one of the most distinctive mountains in the Huayhuash range, often appearing almost perfectly sculpted against the sky.

    Further along the route, we also had wide views of the Huacanan ice field, a vast frozen plateau feeding the surrounding glaciers and rivers. The massive expanse of ice and snow stretched across the horizon, reminding us how much of the Huayhuash range is shaped by ancient and ongoing glacial activity...

   As we continued, the landscape became even more alive. Large herds of alpacas and llamas moved freely across the high-altitude plains, adding a peaceful rhythm to the harsh, dramatic environment. Their presence made the valley feel inhabited despite its remoteness.

   It was a powerful contrast - soft animals grazing below, and a frozen world of ice just above them...

   After a long descent, we finally reached Viconga Lake, surrounded by wide high-altitude landscapes and impressive mountain views...

   Viconga Lake framed by the dramatic high Andes, with the expansive Huacanan ice field stretching across the horizon...

  Short break on the way...  

   We arrived at the Viconga hot springs campsite around midday. Unfortunately, that day we both had strong headaches, likely caused by the altitude and accumulated fatigue from the previous stages.

   After resting in the tent for about three hours, we decided to visit the natural hot springs located right next to the campsite.

   The warm mineral water pools, surrounded by towering mountains, turned out to be exactly what we needed. We spent around two hours soaking in the hot springs, relaxing in silence while watching the dramatic peaks around us. The combination of heat, rest, and mineral water worked incredibly well - the headache gradually disappeared, and we felt noticeably recovered afterward...

  By the evening, we were once again able to enjoy the beauty of the camp, this time with much more energy and appreciation for the unique setting of Viconga, one of the most memorable recovery points on the Huayhuash Circuit. We finished the third day of the trek, with four more days of the Huayhuash Circuit still ahead of us...