Peru. Amazonia Expedition

  Our 4-day expedition into the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve combined jungle hikes and boat rides through one of the most biodiverse regions of the Amazon. We spent one night in a rural refuge near Buenos Aires village and two nights at remote jungle camps deeper inside the reserve. Along the way, we saw several species of monkeys, sloths, parrots, macaws, caimans, Amazon foxes, spiders, snakes, and many other birds and animals. We also fished for piranhas and learned about the rainforest's remarkable plant life, including giant ceiba and ficus trees with massive roots towering above our heads...

 Expedition into the Amazon began early in the morning. At 6:00 a.m., we were picked up from our guesthouse in Iquitos and driven about 100 km south to the town of Nauta, the main gateway to the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve.

  From Nauta, we boarded a motorboat loaded with everything needed for the next four days in the jungle — food supplies, camping equipment, fuel, and other essentials. The adventure truly began as we headed upstream along the mighty Marañón River.

  The Marañón is one of the principal headwaters of the Amazon River and stretches for more than 1,400 km through Peru. Together with the Ucayali River, it forms the Amazon River near Iquitos. Historically, the Marañón has served as one of the most important transportation routes in the Peruvian Amazon and remains a lifeline for countless riverside communities.

  The boat journey to the reserve entrance took about one and a half hours. Along the way, we observed everyday life on the riverbanks - wooden houses, small boats used for transport and fishing, and local families whose lives are closely connected to the river.

   Views of the Amazon rainforest from the river reveal dense, endless greenery stretching to the horizon, with tall trees forming a continuous canopy. The shoreline is lined with thick vegetation, and the forest often appears untouched and wild. From the water, occasional birds and wildlife can be seen, creating a peaceful and immersive natural landscape...

 After reaching the entrance checkpoint of Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve, we registered our visit and continued deeper into the protected area...

  On our way to Buenos Aires village, we were given lunch packed in banana leaves - a traditional Amazonian meal known as juane. It consisted of rice seasoned with local spices and mixed with chicken, all wrapped in bijao or banana leaves and steamed. Juane is one of the most popular dishes in the Peruvian Amazon and is especially convenient for travel, as the leaves keep the food fresh for hours without refrigeration...

   After approximately one and a half hours boat brought us to the small village of Buenos Aires, one of the communities located within the reserve.

  Near the village, we settled into our accommodation for the first night - Alojamiento Refugio Rural Amazonas. Surrounded by rainforest and far from any roads, it was the perfect place to begin our exploration of one of the largest protected rainforest areas in South America.

  After arriving at the refuge and settling in, we went for a walk through the village and into the nearby jungle. It was our first opportunity to experience daily life in an Amazonian community and to get a closer look at the rainforest...

  Along the trails, our guide introduced us to local plants. The walk also gave us our first chance to spot Amazonian wildlife and hear the sounds of the jungle surrounding the village...

  Here we observed Socratea exorrhiza, the so-called walking palm, easily recognized by its unusual stilt roots that lift the trunk above the ground and give it a striking, almost otherworldly appearance.

  As we ventured deeper into the jungle, the trail was increasingly overgrown with lush vegetation, including numerous fern-like plants...

  After returning from the walk, we had some time to rest before dinner. Once darkness fell, we headed back into the jungle to experience its nighttime life. The atmosphere was completely different from during the day...

  The sounds of the rainforest became much louder and more intense, as if the jungle had just awakened. Everywhere around us we could hear insects, frogs, birds, and countless unseen creatures calling from the darkness. Walking through the forest at night, guided only by our flashlights, was one of the most memorable experiences of the expedition and gave us a glimpse into a world that remains hidden during daylight hours... 

  The next morning, we woke up at 5:00 a.m. for a sunrise boat ride. For about two hours, we slowly navigated the waterways surrounding the reserve, watching the rainforest come to life with the first light of day. 

  The sunrise itself was not clearly visible, as low clouds covered much of the sky. In the Amazon, rain and clouds are a natural part of daily life, and the weather can change several times throughout the day. Even without a dramatic sunrise, the early morning atmosphere was special. The sounds of the awakening rainforest created an incredible backdrop, with birds, insects, and countless unseen animals filling the air with noise and adding a unique vibe to the experience.

  One of the highlights of the ride was spotting several pink river dolphins. They appeared only briefly before disappearing beneath the water again, making them surprisingly difficult to photograph. Most of the time, by the moment we noticed them and pointed the camera in the right direction, they had already vanished. Despite that, seeing these iconic Amazon animals in the wild was an unforgettable experience.

  Floating back after sunset, we watched rural life from the water - wooden houses along the riverbanks and small boats moving quietly across the surface. It was a simple, peaceful glimpse into everyday life in the village, framed by the calm of the river as we slowly made our way back.

 After returning to the refuge, we had some time before breakfast was ready, so we went back to the village to explore it in more detail.

 

  We walked along the small paths between the houses and got a closer look at daily life in this remote Amazonian community. Many of the homes were simple wooden structures raised above the ground to protect them from seasonal flooding, and life seemed to move at a much slower pace than in the city.

  It was interesting to see how closely the villagers' lives are connected to the surrounding rainforest and waterways. Fishing, small-scale farming, and river transport remain an essential part of everyday life, and the village offered a glimpse into a way of living that has changed little over generations.

  After breakfast, we boarded our boat and continued deeper into the Pacaya-Samiria Reserve. The journey took about two hours, passing through remote waterways surrounded by dense rainforest..

  At one point, I was even given the opportunity to steer the boat for a while, which made the experience even more memorable.

  During this ride we saw a lot of birds flying like ara parrots and pelicans...

   But the highlight was a sloth which we saw high up in a tree, slowly moving as it ate some plants. It was one of those quiet, almost surreal moments where everything else fades away and you’re just watching wildlife in its natural rhythm...

  The boat continued gliding through narrow channels of the reserve, with the dense jungle closing in on both sides. Every turn seemed to reveal something new, whether it was the sound of distant bird calls or sudden movement in the trees. The stillness of the water and the richness of the surroundings made it feel like we were deep inside another world...

  Then we came to our second campsite, where our guide and boatman set up the tent in the jungle while we relaxed nearby and took in the surroundings...

  On this expedition, we had left most of our hiking supplies in Iquitos, so setting up the tent and preparing food was not something we had to worry about. It felt quite different from our trek in Huayhuash just a five days before, where everything had to be carried and managed by ourselves.

  Here, the experience was much more about observing and absorbing the environment rather than focusing on logistics. With everything taken care of, we had the chance to simply sit back, listen to the sounds of the rainforest, and enjoy the slower rhythm of life deep in the Amazon.

  Then we had two jungle hikes with a short break in between for lunch and rest. This time, the boatman prepared a delicious meal of chicken, rice, marinated onions, and fried bananas, which we ate on the boat, making the experience even better. It was simple but incredibly satisfying, especially after a long morning on the water and jungle walks. Eating in the middle of the rainforest made everything taste even better, with the sounds of the jungle all around us adding to the atmosphere...

  During the walks, we saw many massive trees, including ceiba and ficus, as well as groups of monkeys moving through the canopy above us. It was fascinating to be surrounded by such towering rainforest giants while spotting wildlife along the way...

   Here we observed once again walking palm, easily recognized by its unusual stilt roots that lift the trunk above the ground...

  We were especially impressed by Ceiba pentandra, also known as the Kapok tree or “Tree of Life,” which towers dramatically above the rainforest and is one of the most iconic trees in the Amazon...

 One of its most striking features is its enormous size - it can grow over 60 meters tall, rising far above the forest canopy. The trunk is often massive and buttressed at the base, helping it stay stable in soft, shallow rainforest soils. These buttress roots spread out like natural walls and are one of the reasons the tree can reach such incredible heights...

  The ceiba also produces light, fluffy fibers called kapok, which once had commercial value for stuffing pillows, mattresses, and life jackets because of its buoyancy and water resistance. Interestingly, the fibers are surrounded by seed pods that burst open and scatter them into the wind. In many cultures across Central and South America, the ceiba is considered a sacred or symbolic “world tree,” believed to connect the underworld, earth, and sky. Even today, it is often seen as a symbol of strength, longevity, and connection to nature.

  After the rain started, we had some rest time in the tent. I didn’t feel like just staying inside, so I went out into the jungle. There, I came across a group of saddle-back tamarin monkeys, surprisingly close and easy to observe as they moved through the trees. After a while, I went back to get Diana so she could see them too.

  Other ceiba trees... 

  We saw a Green-backed Trogon perched quietly among the branches, its vivid plumage standing out beautifully against the dense green backdrop of the rainforest.

 Unusual base of a tropical tree, characterized by a massive cluster of stilt roots (also called prop roots) that extend from the trunk above the ground. Numerous thick, woody, adventitious roots grow obliquely downward from the base of the main trunk, anchoring the tree firmly into the forest floor. This structure provides stability in unstable, shallow, or nutrient-poor rainforest soils...

  We had long  jungle hike, which we finished after dark, so part of the walk took place in the night jungle, and as usual we saw a snakes. 

After returning to the campsite, we had dinner, and then went to sleep after an intense and rewarding day. In the morning, we went for an early jungle walk...

 On this morning walk, we observed a group of mantled howler monkeys moving through the trees. Their deep, resonant calls echoed through the jungle long before we saw them, making their presence known across the forest. Once we spotted them, we watched as they moved slowly and deliberately through the canopy, resting between bursts of movement as they fed on leaves.

  

 These are mantled howler monkey, one of the loudest land animals in the world. Their characteristic “howls” can travel several kilometers through dense rainforest, helping groups communicate and mark territory without needing to travel far. Despite their powerful vocal presence, they are generally calm and spend much of their time resting and feeding high in the trees.

 Then we saw a “kingdom of ants” — a massive and highly organized ant colony spread across the forest floor. Trails of ants moved in steady lines, carrying leaves, seeds, and tiny fragments of the jungle back to their nest with remarkable coordination. It was fascinating to watch how such small creatures could form such an efficient and structured system, almost like a living city hidden within the rainforest.

  Returning to the campsite, our boatman had already prepared breakfast for us, which we enjoyed after a successful morning jungle hike...

  One thing we really appreciated about this expedition was how small and personal it was. There were only the two of us, accompanied by a guide and a boatman, who also prepared all our meals during the trip. Without a large group, the experience felt much more authentic and flexible, allowing us to spend more time observing wildlife and enjoying the rainforest at our own pace.

 While we ate our breakfast, the boatman packed up the tent, and afterwards we floated deeper into the reserve, heading toward the next campsite. This was the third day of the expedition, and along the way our guide arranged a smaller boat, which was tied to our main one and would allow us to navigate the narrow canals more easily and explore the rainforest in a different way than before, using a canoe instead of hiking.

  While floating, we once again saw a sloth high in the trees, moving slowly through the canopy and eating some plants... 

  We also spotted many parrots, including vibrant macaws, flying overhead and adding flashes of color to the green rainforest around us. Some of them we saw nesting in the trees...

  Then we transferred to a small boat and took a ride through the narrow canals of the rainforest, gliding quietly between dense vegetation and overhanging branches.

  Then we came back to the main boat and continued our ride to the campsite...

  When we arrived at the campsite, the boatman and I set up the tent in the jungle...

  After, we went into the jungle, walking along a trail through a variety of plants and ceiba trees...

Ceiba tree...

  One of the most impressive trees we encountered was also an Abbey Fig (Ficus albipila), often referred to locally as "The Big Tree." Towering above the surrounding rainforest, its enormous trunk and massive buttress roots made it look like a natural cathedral rising from the jungle floor. Like many fig species, it plays an important ecological role by providing food and shelter for a wide variety of wildlife, including birds, monkeys, and insects. Standing beneath it gave us a real sense of the scale and age of the Amazon rainforest.

  We also saw the bacuri fruit (Platonia insignis). Our guide explained that it is a favorite food of monkeys and other rainforest animals. Despite being known as "monkey food," the fruit is also enjoyed by people. Beneath its thick shell is a fragrant white pulp with a sweet and slightly tangy flavor, which is commonly used in juices, desserts, and ice cream throughout the Amazon region...

  While we were exploring the jungle, the boatman stayed behind at the campsite and prepared lunch for us. After returning from our hike, it was a welcome sight and the perfect way to recharge before continuing our adventure...

  After lunch, we took the small boat into the narrow channels of the rainforest. We also brought fishing gear with us, as we planned to try our luck fishing for piranhas along the way. The quiet waterways offered a completely different perspective of the Amazon, allowing us to get closer to the dense vegetation and observe the rainforest from the water...

  Then we started fishing. Diana caught an Amazonian tetra, a small freshwater fish from the genus Astyanax, commonly known as a lambari or tetra...

   I was lucky enough to catch a red-bellied piranha, one of the Amazon's most famous fish species. In addition to these, we caught several other small fish during the afternoon. Fishing in the quiet rainforest channels was a fun and memorable experience, giving us a chance to interact with the Amazon ecosystem in a completely different way...

  Then Diana also caught a small red-bellied piranha, adding another exciting catch to our fishing adventure...

  The piranhas and tetras we caught were later prepared by our boatman for dinner. It was a unique experience to eat fish that we had caught ourselves just a few hours earlier...

  After dark, we went out by boat in search of caimans. The night ride took around two hours as we slowly navigated the dark waterways to reach the areas where they are usually spotted. We spotted two caimans in the dark by slowly sweeping a flashlight across the calm water and riverbanks, where their eyes reflected back as small glowing points. At first it was just darkness and still water, but then pairs of faint red-orange lights appeared just above the surface, almost like embers floating in place. Those reflections came from their eyes catching the beam, making them stand out sharply against the black surroundings.

  We returned to the campsite quite late, after 8:00 pm, had dinner, and then went to our tent to rest. The night felt short because we had an early wake-up planned at 5:00. At dawn, we set out by small boat down the river to look for more caimans and listen to the morning sounds of the jungle as everything slowly came to life...

   We spotted a caiman along the riverbank during our canoe trip...

  Later on, we saw a monkeys eating fruits in the trees, calmly picking and feeding as it moved through the branches...

  The most impressive part of the morning, though, was the sound of the howler monkeys echoing through the jungle, mixed with birds as the forest slowly came to life, and the beautiful landscapes of Amazonian waters stretching quietly around us...

  We were floating down the river in a canoe when our motor boat caught up with us along the way, and we transferred into it. Meanwhile, as we drifted, the boatman prepared breakfast on board...

  Next, we drifted back toward Nauta, stopping at the refugio before officially checking out from Pacaya Samiria National Reserve...

   On the return journey, we sat on the bow of the boat with our legs hanging in the water, just taking everything in - letting the Amazon settle over us. It felt calm and unreal, like we were slowly absorbing everything we had just experienced...

  We reached Nauta in the afternoon and arrived back in Iquitos shortly after 3 p.m. The next day, we planned to continue our Amazon journey by renting a boat for the day and making our own way along the Amazon River, without joining a tour, to visit the rescue centers - Monkey Island and Pilpintuwasi. There, we hoped to see the animals up close and support their care through a donation, learning more about the efforts to protect and rehabilitate wildlife in the heart of the rainforest.