Montenegro. Kotor

  Kotor is a stunning coastal town in Montenegro, nestled at the edge of Boka Kotorska Bay, a dramatic bay carved by rivers and surrounded by steep mountains. Famous for its medieval Old Town, fortified walls, and winding cobblestone streets, Kotor perfectly blended history, culture, and breathtaking natural scenery. Hiking up to the Kotor Fortress rewarded us with panoramic views, while cozy plazas and charming cafes provided a timeless atmosphere for us to enjoy...

  When we arrived, we entered the Old Town through the nearest gate, stepping straight into the heart of this medieval city...

  The narrow, winding streets immediately drew us in, and we stopped at the first cozy plaza to enjoy a cappuccino, soaking in the charming atmosphere...

  The Clock Tower Plaza (Trg od Sahata) is a centerpiece of Kotor’s Old Town, dominated by its 17th-century clock tower, which has marked time for the town for centuries. Built during the Venetian period, the tower reflects Kotor’s strategic and cultural significance as a fortified coastal city. The square itself was historically a hub for civic life, hosting markets, public announcements, and celebrations, and it served as a crossroads connecting the main streets of the Old Town.

  Around the plaza, you can still see medieval stone buildings with characteristic Venetian and Austro-Hungarian influences, including arched windows, ornate doorways, and defensive architectural features. Even centuries later, the plaza retains a quiet grandeur: the clock tower’s chimes echo through the cobblestone streets, reminding visitors of the rhythms of life that have passed through Kotor for generations.

  St. Tryphon Cathedral (Katedrala Svetog Tripuna) is the jewel of Kotor’s Old Town and one of Montenegro’s most significant Romanesque landmarks. Built in 1166, it has withstood centuries of earthquakes, fires, and foreign rule, symbolizing the resilience and continuity of Kotor’s community. The cathedral is dedicated to Saint Tryphon, the city’s patron saint, whose relics were brought to Kotor in the medieval period, establishing the city as an important spiritual center.

  The façade is a testament to medieval craftsmanship, featuring intricate stone carvings, Romanesque arches, and two imposing bell towers, which have guided sailors and townspeople alike for generations. Inside, the cathedral houses ancient frescoes, icons, and relics that trace Kotor’s religious and artistic history, reflecting influences from Venetian, Byzantine, and local Montenegrin traditions.

   It’s interesting that the two bell towers of Kotor’s St. Tryphon Cathedral are not identical, and there’s a historical reason for this. Over the centuries, the cathedral suffered damage from earthquakes - most notably in 1667 and 1979 - and underwent multiple reconstructions. The left and right towers were rebuilt at different times, using slightly different architectural styles and proportions, reflecting the needs and resources available during each restoration. The towers were also sometimes adapted for practical purposes, such as housing bells of different sizes or accommodating structural constraints, which created the asymmetry we see today. This difference adds to the cathedral’s charm, showcasing layers of history and the resilience of Kotor’s architecture through the centuries.

   Our Hike to Kotor Fortress began in the heart of Kotor's Old Town, where we entered through the main gate arch. At first, we tried to ascend via the main route leading to the fortress. However, upon reaching the entrance, we were shocked by the €15 per person fee. We didn’t accept this and decided to find an alternative solution...

  We exited the Old Town and opted for an alternative route. This lesser-known path, often referred to as the "Ladder of Kotor," offers a more rugged ascent, weaving through the city's outskirts and providing a unique perspective of the surrounding landscape.

  The small Church of St. Juraj (St. George) is a quiet medieval gem. Built of local stone and dedicated to the warrior-saint George, it likely dates to the 12th–14th centuries, when such hillside chapels served travelers and shepherds. Its simple rectangular form, modest bell-cote, and weathered fresco fragments reflect the region’s blend of Byzantine and Romanesque influences, while its strategic location offered both a spiritual pause for pilgrims and a lookout over the Bay of Kotor. Today it stands as a serene witness to centuries of trade, defense, and devotion along this dramatic serpentine route...

  The trail is marked by a series of switchbacks, gradually leading us up the mountainside. About 40 minutes into the hike, we came across a ladder that led to a small window in the fortress wall...

   We climbed through a small window into the fortress itself, entering a space that felt almost like a hidden passage through history...

   The fortress walls, originally built in the 9th century and extensively expanded by the Venetians between the 14th and 18th centuries, stretch for nearly 4.5 kilometers and climb over 280 meters above sea level. They were meticulously designed to withstand centuries of invasions. The walls zigzag up the steep limestone cliffs, creating layered defenses that made it nearly impossible for attackers to breach. Their strategic positioning allowed guards to monitor both the bay and the town, while the terraced paths and bastions provided cover and firing points, blending military ingenuity with the dramatic natural landscape...

   The sight of the terracotta rooftops nestled against the backdrop of the Adriatic Sea was nothing short of mesmerizing. This free alternative route not only provided a cost-effective means to reach the top but also enriched our experience with a deeper appreciation for the city's history and natural beauty.

   Perched dramatically above the Bay of Kotor, the old fortress offers a breathtaking panorama of the deep blue waters below and the winding streets of the historic town...

  We stayed for 2 nights and 3 days in a charming apartment on the opposite side of the bay, right across from Kotor’s old town. The location was perfect—just steps from access point to the water, ideal for swimming...

  Our apartment was perched on a hill beneath the mountain...

    Apartment balcony offering stunning views, every breakfast and dinner became a truly unforgettable experience...

    As night falls over the bay, the lights of Kotor’s dance on the water’s surface, turning the harbor into a shimmering tapestry of warmth and reflection.

  With plenty of time in Kotor, we spent all three days leisurely exploring the old city. We wandered along the city walls and admired the town from different perspectives, discovering its charm from every angle...

   When the rain began to fall, we sought refuge in the Cathedral of Saint Tryphon, and it became one of the most memorable moments of our visit. This 12th-century Romanesque cathedral, dedicated to Kotor’s patron saint, is a sanctuary of art and history. Inside, the soft pink and honey hues of the stone walls create a serene atmosphere, complemented by the alternating Corinthian columns and pink stone pillars that support the vaulted ceilings...

  The main altar is crowned by a remarkable ciborium from 1362, intricately carved with scenes from Saint Tryphon’s life—a masterpiece of medieval stonecutting. Above, Byzantine frescoes from the 14th century adorn the arches, offering glimpses into the past. The cathedral also houses a collection of religious relics, including silver and gold artifacts, each telling a story of devotion and craftsmanship.

   

  The devotional ensemble in the Cathedral of Saint Tryphon masterfully layers sculpture, painting, and relief to guide the viewer through a spiritual journey: the life-sized wooden statue of Saint Roch, depicted as a humble pilgrim revealing his plague wound, embodies earthly suffering and intercession, while behind him, Christ crowned with thorns in red robes represents divine endurance and sacrifice, and above, God the Father in a golden triangular halo asserts divine authority and blessing. The Baroque framing, marble columns, and a solitary brass candleholder unify the composition, creating a dramatic interplay of human vulnerability, Christ’s Passion, and divine power, reflecting both the historical context of plague devotion and a visual narrative that leads the faithful from petition to contemplation of salvation...

   View from the Cathedral window... 

  The view from the Cathedral’s terrace.. 

    Once hailed as Kotor’s most exquisite palace of the 17th century, Pima Palace is a Renaissance masterpiece located near the Square of Arms. Built after the 1667 earthquake, it features a grand portal adorned with the Pima family coat of arms, upheld by two angelic figures. Despite enduring multiple earthquakes, the palace has been restored and stands proudly today, offering a glimpse into the city's aristocratic past...

    Our favorite food in Kotor’s old town was the delicious pizza...

   and creamy pita—each bite was absolutely unforgettable...

  Kotor completely captured us - strolling its enchanting streets, savoring delicious food, and enjoying breathtaking views from our apartment and the fortress. The bay shimmering at night was magical, and we picked up some souvenirs, including magnets featuring cats, beloved in Kotor for roaming freely through the old town, and three large wooden fish for our bathroom, perfect reminders of the city’s seaside vibe. From Kotor, we continued to Podgorica, our final stop before flying back...