Norway. Geirangerfjord Hikes

  Our two days in Geiranger were nothing short of spectacular - filled with unforgettable hikes, dramatic fjord views, and pure mountain air. From steep climbs to peaceful moments overlooking the water, every step offered a new perspective on this breathtaking corner of Norway. Here's how it all unfolded.

 Geiranger, part of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed West Norwegian Fjords, is often referred to as the “crown jewel” of Norwegian fjords. It’s home to Geirangerfjord, known for its majestic waterfalls like The Seven Sisters, The Suitor, and The Bridal Veil. Cruise ships regularly dock here, bringing in thousands of visitors, but there’s still plenty of wilderness and quiet corners if you know where to look... 

  Map of our hikes...

  We arrived in Geiranger by ferry in the evening, greeted by the dramatic landscape of deep blue waters and steep, green cliffs that rise straight out of the fjord. The charming streets of the town immediately invited us in - colorful wooden houses, cozy cafés, and a laid-back atmosphere despite being one of Norway’s most visited tourist destinations...

  Before heading to our campsite, we stopped at a local tourist shop where we surprisingly found high-quality wind jackets at a great price. I picked a bright orange one, and Diana chose a deep red...

  Most tourists stay near the shore at the large campsite by the ferry terminal, but we were looking for something more peaceful and natural. So, we hiked uphill to Vinje Camping—a smaller, quieter site tucked into the hills above Geiranger. On our way up, we followed the scenic Fossevandring, a beautiful waterfall walk that runs alongside the mighty Storfossen ("the Great Waterfall"). From there, we could see the main Geiranger campsite below, packed with parked caravans - it looked almost like a cemetery from above...

  Vinje Camping is a cozy spot with great views and a more secluded, rustic vibe. It offers both cabins and spaces for tents, and the best part? We found a perfect place to pitch our tent near a small waterfall, right under a massive rock formation - the soothing sound of water accompanied us all night...

  Here they are - our new colorful jackets, ready to brighten up the fjords!

  The next day, we retraced our steps along the Fossevandring, soaking in the gentle morning light as it danced on Storfossen. The trail, with its 300+ stone steps, offers breathtaking viewpoints where you can feel the power and mist of the waterfall up close. It links the town center to the Norwegian Fjord Centre, seamlessly blending nature and architecture in that distinctly Norwegian way. From there, we continued toward Skageflå - one of Norway’s most iconic historic farms...

  The trail first passes through Solhaug, a peaceful little area with scattered houses, then begins to climb steeply up the mountainside...

  After a while, we reached Homlungsætra, a charming mountain pasture dotted with traditional wooden farm buildings. These old summer farms, or sæters, were once used for seasonal grazing.

  From Homlungsætra, we continued along a narrow mountain trail that follows the cliffs high above Geirangerfjord. The path is thrilling — just wide enough in places — and hugs the mountain edge, offering breathtaking panoramas. Eventually, we reached one of the most spectacular viewpoints of the whole hike. 

   We paused here for about an hour, enjoying our packed lunch while soaking in the iconic view: the calm, blue fjord far below, the Seven Sisters Waterfall cascading down in elegant streams...

  We could see the small, abandoned mountain farm of Knivsflå, perched right beside the roaring Seven Sisters waterfalls. It's one of several historic farms clinging impossibly high above the Geirangerfjord - a true testament to human resilience. Knivsflå was abandoned in the late 19th century due to dangerous living conditions: frequent avalanches and rockfalls made life here incredibly risky. Yet for generations, families lived and farmed on these steep slopes, raising animals and harvesting hay by hand. Today, the farm remains frozen in time - a hauntingly beautiful reminder of the past, still visible from across the fjord like a piece of history etched into the mountain.

  After lunch, we began our descent toward Skageflå, which we had already spotted earlier clinging to a mountainside like something from a fairy tale...

  Reaching Skageflå was like stepping back in time. This historic mountain farm sits about 250 meters above the fjord, with wooden buildings that have been preserved to reflect life as it was centuries ago. It’s one of the best-preserved fjord farms in Norway...

  For centuries, reaching Skageflå meant climbing a steep and exposed mountainside. The path was so difficult that, according to local legend, farmers would remove the wooden ladders and logs used to reach the farm whenever the sheriff came to collect taxes, leaving him unable to climb up and forcing him to turn back.

  Life on the farm was demanding and dangerous. The steep cliffs meant that even children had to be watched carefully; according to local accounts, very young children were sometimes tied with ropes to the walls of the houses so that they could not accidentally fall over the edge. The farmers also had to live with the constant threat of rockfalls and avalanches. The farm buildings were therefore placed in relatively protected locations, taking advantage of the natural terrain.

  In 1855, the local authorities decided to provide financial support to improve the trail. That same year, mining foreman Ole P. Solnørgjærde worked on the mountainside, blasting sections of rock, carving steps and improving the route. This transformed the previously precarious access into a more secure path, although the climb remained steep and exposed.

  Then, in 1873, a major landslide destroyed much of Skageflå's cultivated farmland. The damage was so extensive that the farm was divided into two holdings the following year, partly to help with the recovery and rebuilding.

  Despite its difficult environment, Skageflå remained a productive farm. At its peak, it supported around 120 goats, as well as sheep, cows and a horse. The farm was finally abandoned as a permanent residence in 1916–1918, although the land continued to be used for haymaking for decades afterwards.

  Skageflå has a royal story too - King Harald and Queen Sonja celebrated their silver wedding anniversary here in 1993, highlighting its cultural significance. The location is both humbling and awe-inspiring; it's easy to imagine the generations of farmers who once lived in this remote spot, growing hay and raising goats on these steep, unforgiving slopes...

  From the farm, we got a different angle of the Seven Sisters, watching the water ribbons dance down the cliffs in the breeze. The view was so peaceful and majestic that we lingered a while before beginning our return journey...

  On our way back, I couldn’t resist stepping beneath a small but lofty waterfall cascading down the cliffside. It wasn’t at full force - just a soft shower of droplets catching the sunlight, like passing through a curtain of gentle summer rain. The cool mist on my skin was incredibly refreshing after the warmth of the hike. Standing there for a moment, surrounded by towering rock walls and the soothing sound of trickling water, felt almost surreal.

  When we returned to Homlungsætra, the late afternoon sun cast golden light over the landscape. From this height, we saw Gjerdefossen waterfall glowing in the sunlight, with mist catching the light and creating tiny rainbow-like reflections. It was one of those unexpected magical moments that only happen in the mountains...

  Bit by bit, the trail brought us back down toward Geiranger. About 4 kilometers out, we paused to take in the wide-open view - the fjord below sparkled in the afternoon sun, framed by steep green mountains and patches of forest. The village sat quietly at the end of the water...

  Despite the hours on the trail, we weren’t so tired - just filled with that calm, satisfied feeling you get after a perfect day outside. The light was still bright and golden, and summer felt endless. We made one last stop at the local shop, grabbed a box of ice cream, and sat by the fjord to soak it all in — sunshine, mountains, water, and that quiet Norwegian magic...

  The next day, we set off toward Storsæterfossen, a waterfall known for one unique feature — you can actually walk behind it. On the way up, we passed through Vesterås farm, a charming old mountain farm where a few relaxed llamas were lounging around with a dramatic mountain backdrop. It felt almost surreal to see them so calmly enjoying the view - just like us...

  From there, the trail opened up to a wide view over the valley, and we could spot our campsite in the distance, tucked into the green landscape far below...

  The weather was perfect - sunny, warm, with just a light breeze. As we continued climbing, the trail became steeper, but well-maintained. Finally, we reached Storsæterfossen.

  A steep set of stone steps, securely built into the hillside, led us down and behind the falls. It was loud and misty, but magical — the cool spray on our faces, the sound of rushing water echoing through the narrow passage, and the light filtering through the cascade from the outside created an unforgettable moment...

  After descending from the waterfall, we made our way to one of the most iconic viewpoints in the region - Flydalsjuvet...

  It's a dramatic, cliffside platform overlooking the entire Geirangerfjord from above. The view was absolutely stunning: the village spread out below us, green slopes rising steeply from the water, and a giant cruise ship docked at the pier — looking tiny from where we stood...

  We stayed there for a while, just enjoying the calm and the scale of it all. It felt like a perfect place to pause before wrapping up the trip...

  After we went down to the camping, packed our backpacks, and made our way down to the fjord, I couldn’t resist taking a refreshing dip in the cold, crystal-clear water. The chill was intense but invigorating, and I even jumped into the fjord a couple more times, each plunge waking me up and making me feel completely alive...

  After refreshing swim, we made our way to the ferry terminal just in time for the 14:30 departure. We settled on the ferry for a scenic ride to Hellesylt, soaking in the breathtaking views of the fjord and the surrounding mountains as we glided through the calm waters. From Hellesylt, we continued our journey to Ålesund, which would be the final stop on our Norway trip...