1000 km Run Along the Camino del Norte. Part 2
Today we truly felt the accumulated fatigue from the journey... For 10 days, we were ahead of schedule in terms of distance, but this time we slowed down, realizing that continuing in a semi-conscious state is not fun... We both hit the wall simultaneously...
The coastal landscapes opened up to us again... For the first time, we encountered beaches with black sand, due to the proximity of an industrial zone...
Once again, we stayed in an albergue without a fixed price, known as a "donativo albergue" (an albergue for donations). These types of pilgrim shelters are the main highlight of the Camino... They embody the spirit of unity, communication, and openness... Their hosts carry this spirit and help pilgrims feel and understand what the Camino is... The tradition of a communal dinner prepared by the host, where all the pilgrims gather at one table, getting to know each other and communicating, is the main feature of this type of albergue... People from different cultures and nations, united by the common idea of the Camino, merge into a single absolute. Why not transfer this practice of relationship to our everyday lives?
These albergues are maintained by volunteers who are passionate about the spirit of the Camino and do not aim for profit; instead, they enjoy being a constant part of the amazing journey... The "Donativo" system eliminates the divide between the poor and the rich... For the shelter, dinner, and breakfast provided, everyone leaves as much as they can... Where there are no boundaries, you truly feel the soul...
And finally, as our friend, the host of the San Martin de Laspra albergue, Jose Antonio Gonzalez Gonzalez, said: "The Camino gives you what you need and takes away what is unnecessary..."
Camino del Norte. Day 12
The first half of the day, it rained heavily. In just ten minutes, we were completely soaked. The weather urged us to move to keep from freezing... On one of the paths, we came across a block of yogurts; pilgrims find it hard to carry their large backpacks, so they gradually drop ballast... Thus, feeding us... They don't know our rule: if you can't carry it, eat it... Today's scenery reminded us of our native Carpathians, only with an additional option - a view of the ocean...
For the night, we stopped under a canopy near an albergue, and as true pilgrims, we slept outside... For the first time, we used the stove and pot, cooking pasta with sauce and making tea...
Camino del Norte. Day 13
We have 650 km of the Camino behind us... We continue to enjoy the journey and feel the effects of accumulated fatigue each day... At the same time, our bodies have already adapted to the daily exertion. Most of the time, the path goes along country roads, past farms and private estates. There is a lot of asphalt, but there are also trail sections where we can really let loose... The terrain is mostly hilly, with few flat sections.
The fishing town of Luarka...
We no longer even buy fruits, as during the day we feast on oranges, mandarins, a bit of loquats, and cherries picked from trees...
Our traditional snack ...
The markings are simply impressive... They don't mark like this at any competitions... Every turn is marked with arrows and Camino signs... The route sometimes goes through very unexpected alleys, tunnels, and bridges... Running along the highway, past the highway, darting in and out of the forest... Through natural and industrial zones...
Multinational meetings and communication in the albergue are now routine... Today, pilgrims from Brazil, Argentina, Colombia, China, Italy, and France are staying in our room...
Camino del Norte. Day 14
Yesterday in the albergue, we met guys from Brazil and Argentina who were very interested in our running format for the Camino and the gear we brought with us... Everyone is surprised by our small 18-liter backpacks... And when we pull out the miniature Bond stove, pot, and sleeping bags, it creates a whole furor of interest... I recall how one pilgrim from Taiwan was so fascinated by the stove that he photographed it from every possible angle... Footwear is also a major topic... Most walk the Camino in hiking boots, constantly having problems with their feet... In contrast, after running 700 km in sneakers, we have no problems... The same goes for backpacks... Despite running with almost 5 kg of weight, our shoulders and backs are free from any chafing or irritation... We don't even use Vaseline...
Today, we crossed the symbolic border of the Asturias region and entered the mountainous area of Galicia...
We wanted to combine three types of accommodation during our Camino... Thus diversifying our adventure and sharing the benefits of each... Stays in albergues provide the opportunity to communicate with other pilgrims, Couchsurfing stays allow for interaction with local residents... And the coolest level of accommodation for pilgrims - in the open air... It allows you to communicate with yourself... Today is our second night in nature... To the singing of birds, the rustle of the wind, and the percussion of light rain... We found a great shelter near some farm fields, comfortably settling on the hay...
Camino del Norte. Day 15
Running into the Galicia region, every post marks how many kilometers remain to the main pilgrimage site - Santiago de Compostela... Today we crossed the marker at the 100 km post... Stopping at the 85th kilometer from Santiago... We now have about 785 km behind us. To the finish at Cape Finisterre, which we are heading to via the Muxía municipality, we have about 215 km left...
A very popular type of cemetery...
In Santiago de Compostela, we are to receive the so-called Compostela - a certificate of completing the pilgrimage route, and then run further to the Atlantic... And a bit of "lyricism"... The secret of how the Camino unites people from all over the world probably lies in the fact that everyone who sets out on the path leaves their usual shell behind - their home, country, culture... They step out of their comfort zone... And find themselves among people just like them... The paths of Unity are about freeing oneself from the conditioning caused by division into countries, religions, and social status...
Today we covered 73 km, previously our maximum was 65 km... We slept very well, the best sleep we've had so far... The idea of sleeping on hay under a roof was extremely successful... Additionally, almost the entire route for the day went through shaded trails... And we missed the mountainous terrain and trails so much that we didn't want to stop...
Camino del Norte. Day 16
The last night we spent in the small settlement of Miraz under the stars on the cemetery grounds near a church... At night, the temperature dropped to 8 degrees, and with high humidity, it felt even lower... The sleeping bags absorbed moisture, and we got a bit cold at night... Also, there was no shop in this village, so in the evening and morning, we had to make do with a small supply of cookies and a chocolate bar... In the morning, we ran to the nearest market, 25 km away, on an empty stomach...
The landscapes along the route for today's 64 km did not surprise us much. Except for the Sobrado Monastery ...
Classic Spanish churches ...
Today we entered the final stretch to Santiago de Compostela, and the number of pilgrims quadrupled... In the town of Arzúa, two main routes converged - the Camino del Norte and the Camino Francés...
It's interesting that every day we see different people, while other pilgrims always move in the same environment... To constantly meet new pilgrims on the path, you either have to go very slowly or, like us, run...
Camino del Norte. Day 17
Camino del Norte. Day 18
Here lies the symbolic zero kilometer marker, from which our Camino continues for a lifetime...
Traditionally, pilgrims who reach this place burn their shoes and clothes, leaving behind the old perception of their lives and, with a fresh perspective, move in a new direction. However, we will not burn anything to avoid polluting the environment and shocking others, as we do not have spare shoes...
After completing our running pilgrimage in the town of Finisterra, our pilgrim passports became complete, with all the boxes stamped...
Rules of stay...
Greetings for Pilgrims...
Inside, it has a casual, hippie style...
With the head of the establishment, David, and his dreadlocked helper...
Our project has come to an end... In our unconventional running journey, we tried to combine the energy of nature, the energy of communication between people, and the energy of running. The landscapes charged us with the spirit of nature. Communication with pilgrims of different nationalities and locals convinced us that we are an indivisible part of a whole – the absolute. And running, as a form of movement, gave us the joyful feeling of freedom...
 |
| We mark the city we came from on the map... Uzhgorod and the village of Chertez are marked :). In the 10 months of the albergue's existence, it has been visited by 4 Ukrainians, and we added 2 more points to "our" count... For comparison, about 300 Germans have visited... |
The first half of the day, it rained heavily. In just ten minutes, we were completely soaked. The weather urged us to move to keep from freezing... On one of the paths, we came across a block of yogurts; pilgrims find it hard to carry their large backpacks, so they gradually drop ballast... Thus, feeding us... They don't know our rule: if you can't carry it, eat it... Today's scenery reminded us of our native Carpathians, only with an additional option - a view of the ocean...
We have 650 km of the Camino behind us... We continue to enjoy the journey and feel the effects of accumulated fatigue each day... At the same time, our bodies have already adapted to the daily exertion. Most of the time, the path goes along country roads, past farms and private estates. There is a lot of asphalt, but there are also trail sections where we can really let loose... The terrain is mostly hilly, with few flat sections.
The fishing town of Luarka...
Yesterday in the albergue, we met guys from Brazil and Argentina who were very interested in our running format for the Camino and the gear we brought with us... Everyone is surprised by our small 18-liter backpacks... And when we pull out the miniature Bond stove, pot, and sleeping bags, it creates a whole furor of interest... I recall how one pilgrim from Taiwan was so fascinated by the stove that he photographed it from every possible angle... Footwear is also a major topic... Most walk the Camino in hiking boots, constantly having problems with their feet... In contrast, after running 700 km in sneakers, we have no problems... The same goes for backpacks... Despite running with almost 5 kg of weight, our shoulders and backs are free from any chafing or irritation... We don't even use Vaseline...
Today, we crossed the symbolic border of the Asturias region and entered the mountainous area of Galicia...
Traditional food storage...
Running into the Galicia region, every post marks how many kilometers remain to the main pilgrimage site - Santiago de Compostela... Today we crossed the marker at the 100 km post... Stopping at the 85th kilometer from Santiago... We now have about 785 km behind us. To the finish at Cape Finisterre, which we are heading to via the Muxía municipality, we have about 215 km left...
Grain storage place ...
Camino del Norte. Day 16
The last night we spent in the small settlement of Miraz under the stars on the cemetery grounds near a church... At night, the temperature dropped to 8 degrees, and with high humidity, it felt even lower... The sleeping bags absorbed moisture, and we got a bit cold at night... Also, there was no shop in this village, so in the evening and morning, we had to make do with a small supply of cookies and a chocolate bar... In the morning, we ran to the nearest market, 25 km away, on an empty stomach...
The landscapes along the route for today's 64 km did not surprise us much. Except for the Sobrado Monastery ...
It's interesting that every day we see different people, while other pilgrims always move in the same environment... To constantly meet new pilgrims on the path, you either have to go very slowly or, like us, run...
Camino del Norte. Day 17
This morning, we ran into Santiago de Compostela, with only a half-marathon distance left... We found ourselves in a whole stream of pilgrims, who were literally storming towards the "Mecca" of all Caminos... Reaching the main cathedral of the city - the Cathedral of Saint James, we thus completed the pilgrims' path on the Camino del Norte... And started another route, called the Camino a Finisterre...
The Cathedral of Saint James was undergoing total restoration, so we couldn't fully enjoy its beauty...
However, the paintings by street artists depicting the cathedral fully conveyed its beauty... Imagination always paints a picture better than reality...
In Santiago, we went to the pilgrims' office where Compostelas - certificates of completing the pilgrimage route, are issued. We encountered a huge queue...
We didn't get the Compostelas, but we took a picture of what they look like...
It wasn't in our plans to stand in line for half a day for a piece of paper, so instead, we went for a walk in the square... There we met an interesting guy named Luke... He is involved in marking the Camino and is also the organizer of a multi-month pilgrimage from Santiago de Compostela to Jerusalem, the feature of which is that its participants play musical instruments while walking...
We even found a cool monument to feet... After all, feet deserve such respect...
Throughout the day on the Camino a Finisterre, we have already run the first 33 kilometers. Less than 100 kilometers remain to the finish line at Cape Finisterre, historically regarded as the end of the world during the times of the "flat Earth" belief. Over the past 17 days, we have covered 906 kilometers of asphalt, trails, sand, stones, and seawater...
The Atlantic Ocean... The town of Muxía... 40 kilometers to the finish...
Camino del Norte. Day 19
We spent the whole day running along the edge of the Earth, feeling the power of the surf and charging ourselves with the energy formed by the union of the ocean and the land. We leave Muxía...
Panoramas from Finisterre...
The end of the world...
We completed our run of over 1000 kilometers one day ahead of the planned time and reached the "end of the Earth," which is the translation of Cape Finisterre. Along the Camino, we met and talked with pilgrims and locals, occasionally asking them to sign our Ukrainian flag, which we displayed at the final point of our journey...
After completing our running pilgrimage in the town of Finisterra, our pilgrim passports became complete, with all the boxes stamped...
We were also given certificates of pilgrimage completion...
At the "end of the Earth," we spent two days resting and swimming in the cold waters of the Atlantic Ocean...
In the town of Finisterra, we got to know and befriended members of the World Family community, spending two days in their company. As soon as we crossed the threshold of their home, we felt like we were at home. Openness unites, and happy people are free people. World Family was organized about five years ago and has become a true bearer of the Camino spirit. The community includes people who have finished their Camino and, upon reaching the "end of the Earth," decided to stay. For the first three years, they lived on the beach, but after changes in the municipal leadership, they were forced to leave the beach due to a ban on camping and fires. One of the initiators, David, rented a house, set up a very charismatic bar on the ground floor, and lives on the other two floors with like-minded helpers, providing accommodation for kindred spirits. This place is not a hostel or albergue, but you can stay and eat here in exchange for helping with the house and bar chores. We helped clean the bar twice in the morning...
Here is how looked entrance to the bar...
But our journey does not end...
Hitching a ride on a motorhome, we headed towards the city of Lugo, from where we planned to run along the most beautiful part of another Camino – the Camino Primitivo...
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